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Post by johnno on May 29, 2015 21:15:08 GMT
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Post by johnno on May 29, 2015 21:16:38 GMT
Looks Like a need another camera, mono one
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Post by johnno on May 29, 2015 21:19:16 GMT
Cheers Allan, most likely be out most of the day with the other half
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Post by Deleted on May 29, 2015 23:09:59 GMT
Looks Like a need another camera, mono one I'd agree John. No need for a colour cam. You get better detail with a mono cam and you can colour it in post processing. If broadcasting you can add colour on the fly. Its a pity I just sold my DMK41 as it would have suited this purpose.
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 10:37:57 GMT
Nice one Johnno. lets hope you get some sunshine tomorrow so you can test it. I always find that a really bizzarre comment to read in an Astronomy Forum Aren't we supposed to be in search of DARK skies Good luck John. Pretty slack that they didn't include a simple lead!
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Post by davy on May 30, 2015 12:32:38 GMT
Watec 902..would be great I think..1/2" sensor highly sensitive.
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 13:35:54 GMT
Watec 902..would be great I think..1/2" sensor highly sensitive. Which Watec 902 Davy? 902H, 902B, 902H2 Ultimate, 902H2 Supreme, 902H3 Ultimate, or 902H3 Supreme? They are all different The Watec 100N EIA would make a nice setup for Solar.
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Post by johnno on May 30, 2015 14:01:46 GMT
I've just been looking at a Wat 902A but the spec's don't seem all that good for resolution. Up to now the Xtreme is my best camera because of the 1/2 sensor if I use the iNova the FOV will be so small because of the 4.2 barlow in the Quark.Not been able to try it coz of cloud cover and I don't think it will improve over the weekend.
The lead that came with it is poor as much to say they should of supplied it with a separate USB lead and a separate mains adapter so you could have the choice on how you want to power it up instead of the lead fixed to the mains plug. I've ordered a cigarette male plug with a USB 2.4amp adapter and I'll use my cell phone charging lead with it.
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 14:08:20 GMT
John, do you have a Philips ToUcam 840k Pro II webcam, or a Philips SPC900NC webcam?
They are fantastic Solar System cameras. They can still be purchased in the UK (only place left in the world that sells them).
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Post by johnno on May 30, 2015 14:17:50 GMT
Yes Ken I have the 900 but for the life of me I've mislaid it but its colour
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 14:25:07 GMT
Find it John A 900NC will do a far better job on the sun than the Watec will. Yes, it is colour. All the better. That Solar Gizmo you bought will show up surface granulation perfectly with a 900NC, and the sunspots will be black, not shades of whatever Hue you put a Mono camera into. Now go look for that 900
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Post by johnno on May 30, 2015 14:30:37 GMT
In the manual it says to use a UV/IR filter I've got 3 filters
Revelation IR blocking
Baader UV/IR cut/L
Baader Neodymium & IR cut
which one would you suggest?
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 14:53:54 GMT
Depends on the size scope you are going to use John. If you are going to use a small scope like about 70mm, then I'd suggest the Baader IR/UV cut filter. But if you are going to use a larger scope then you will need to use a proper Energy Rejection filter, which blocks IR/UV and blocks other dangerous heat, but still allows the important H-alpha through.
If you use an IR/UV filter make sure it is a 'Reflective' type, not an 'absorption' type.
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Post by johnno on May 30, 2015 14:54:06 GMT
Just looked on SGL and most of them are using the Baader UV/IR Cut so I've stuck that on the front, don't know what the L stands for
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Post by davy on May 30, 2015 14:57:25 GMT
Was thinking the 902h ultimate.. cant say for shure on the sun ,with the quark..my thinking was it could be used at night as well..
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Post by johnno on May 30, 2015 15:05:55 GMT
I'm using the ED80 and they recommend to use a uv/ ir filter only, no need for a ERF but if you want best performance to use a red or yellow glass front mount ERF, they seem to cost half the price of the Quark so I'll stick with the filter like most of them are doing.
I've no idea if its reflective or absorbtion
would it make any difference if I double stacked the filters?
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 15:12:59 GMT
'L' stands for Luminence. It's a letter they use in Imaging to say that you use this particular IR/UV filter on your luminence frames when doing Mono colour filter imaging. Visual IR/UV filters (without the 'L') don't have to be photographically perfect, so they tend to be a little bit cheaper. John, if the others are using just the Baader IR/UV filter with the Quark, you'll be OK. Otherwise they would have already complained about overheating. Daystar would recommend an Energy rejection filter at a smaller aperture to cover themselves (the 'better to be safe than sorry' theory). Don't double stack them as it may trap heat inside of the filters. Baader 'L' is a reflective type. Not an Absorption type. I just checked for you. That's good
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Post by johnno on May 30, 2015 15:28:59 GMT
Cheers Ken, If one of them glass type filters come up used I'll buy it to be on the safe side
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Post by Dragon Man on May 30, 2015 15:30:14 GMT
Good idea John. just in case
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2015 15:42:54 GMT
You should be ok with the IR/UV filter John. As Daystar have said, on larger scopes a front mounted erf is needed. As for cams, sensitivity is not an issue. Its resolution that you want. Don't forget, you will be using a fast shutter speed, so small pixels work well. That's why the DMK range was so popular and mono is better for detail than colour. Colour cams always seem to oversaturate the colours and blur the details. I would advocate a larger sensor, especially with the Quark. A 1/4" sensor is going to increase the magnification even further and give a smaller fov. By all means try every cam you have and find out what is best. Then buy a proper one for the job. ;-) Don't forget, where solar imaging is concerned, USB cameras will provide live views as well, so no need to stick to analogue VA cams.
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