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Post by davy on Jul 26, 2014 18:37:11 GMT
this is the view of the camera with the top cover removed and to the left is the 40mm x 40mm fan fitted and glued in place.
this is the top cover looking at it side on..an 18mm x 18mm fan is mounted at front side of casing and a rocker switch has been glued to the side casing also..blue and red wires are from previous mod and will be removed.
this is the top view of top casing..you can see the 40mm fan on top and both the 18mm fans and the type of rocker switch I have used before the casing was fitted I sprayed pcb laquer on board to give it more protection and this is the top casing now fitted and wired up..front focus ring has been fixed in place by glue and epoxy resin..fan casings have been sealed also. final wiring completed and ready for painting camera first coat of paint and on testing
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Post by Dragon Man on Jul 28, 2014 5:28:11 GMT
That's certainly a very custom looking job Davy! I can see why you painted it. The glue makes it look bad, not that anyone would see it out in the dark
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Post by davy on Jul 28, 2014 17:15:25 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2014 17:42:32 GMT
ok i dont think i seen it.. but how did this work out?
i get hot pixels goin in the x64 and up range. in BnW. havent done color yet as waiting on the ir/uv filter.
might try it . but i added a remote keypad . works the charm for sure.. so the fan mod is next i guess. lol
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Post by Dragon Man on Aug 6, 2014 4:37:37 GMT
G'day Phil, yes, you will get more hot pixels as the length of the integration increases. To reduce the problem you need to get the sensor cold. The colder the better. That's why people add Peltier coolers to cameras. They can drop the temperature by around 20-30 degrees celsius. Adding a fan will help. Many people have done it and had success, but only to a point. If you keep running the camera at x512 expect a few to still show up. Especially on hot nights. But its better then having no fan at all. The best method is to suck out the hot air, not blow air in. I managed to get rid of All hot pixels on my Samsung SCB-4000 by adding a very powerful Peltier cooler. It gets so cold it freezes half the camera too but it got rid of them. But with just a fan you will see a difference. Obviously in winter the amount of hot pixels will reduce.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 20:13:11 GMT
the only thing i find a issue. at least in my mind.. no real world data on it... but moving air into or out of cam case.. brings dirt would this not build up on the chip ? iam trying to figure some sort of filter. maybe a car filter cut open for the filter itself. and sized to fan.. any thoughts ? dirt ? filter ?
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Post by davy on Aug 6, 2014 20:35:13 GMT
I am a mechanic by trade,,a pollen filter would trap minute particles ect but restrict flow if it gets dirty... ihave four fans on my mod one 40mm behind the chip board internal to pull hot air from the board 2 18mm fans on the sides and a 40mm on top ..I have a astronomy ir filter on nosecone and have used pcb spray on camera internal boards..im happy any dust wont stay long in the camera..davy
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 22:33:38 GMT
ok. will give my case a go tonite after i check out the skys for a few... ir/uv filter tommorow in mail. and will the wonderfuly R word comes with it.. lol i grown to hate water lol ...
i think ill put back the black plastic caseing around the chip itself. then it will help seal it off on the lens side at least. and as i think your saying. your pullin heat off the back side of the board. that wouldnt be to bad. iam more worried about the lens side of the chip. dust in the back can be cleaned a lot easier lol then the lens side. at least for me..
thank you tho for the info.. it helps a lot for sure..
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Post by davy on Aug 6, 2014 22:38:18 GMT
if you haven't removed the factory ir filter lens,,use a good quality screwdriver the screws are tight and cam out ifyou use a cheap screwdriver, my front end is dust tight with the astronomy ir filter fitted to the nose cone. davy
ps what country are you from..
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Post by Dragon Man on Aug 7, 2014 6:42:46 GMT
There's plenty of real world data on the cooling/fan mods, but they are spread all over the internet. Some in Forums, others in tutorials. Even my test results are buried in Cloudy Nights forum somewhere. Hundreds of cameras have had home-made cooling mods done and many gave detailed reports and photographic results. But trying to find them is a hard task
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Post by davy on Aug 7, 2014 18:25:50 GMT
got mu coaxial controller in today and it wouldn't work numpties put the battery in wrong way..working ok,buttons iffy at times and menu stuck ..switch off and on camera back to ok..not all singing and dancing but it works. . tested on phil dyer camera..it does not work.. davy
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2014 18:29:39 GMT
davy: yeah the filter was removed when i got the cam. the part iam talking about is the holder. that black plastic part that the screws go into and holds the factory filter.. not sure if you replaced yours to help seal up the front..
and iam from the states.. hope that isnt bad lol
D Man: yeah i google for info.. CN is goin thur the change. so things are a mess there.
iam just more worried about dust on the lens side of the chip.. tonite ill fiddle with it some and see what i come up with. i have a nice 1/2 inch fan that might just fit purfect behind the chip. from a remote control car speed controler. or if your coomputer savy. its about the size of the old north bridge fans.
anyways the IR/UV filter is in mail today. so ill have to tinker with that also on adjusting.. i got some video last nite.. with out filter. ill have to u tub. them later.. then you guys can tell me what i might do to fix things..
phil
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Post by davy on Aug 7, 2014 20:41:25 GMT
internal fan is exactly 40mm .and it can be epoxy glued to the top casing alloy bracket that holds top casing cover..you can never keep a camera dust free or even a scope. there to be used .lol.. on this forum all are welcome,colour,creed,nationality but it does help if your Scottish.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2014 2:41:57 GMT
will here it is.. goin to paint when iam sure iam done cutting. lol how it works . no idea yet. i used rubber Orings to help lessin the vibs. i can feel a diff. i checked with and without them.. now to get to some skys...
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Post by davy on Aug 8, 2014 6:31:55 GMT
hi phil. .looking fine..is it a one fan mod..what is th connection on the side for? powering the fan?
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Post by Dragon Man on Aug 8, 2014 6:45:24 GMT
Looking good so far Phil. Now get that paint brush out and hide those scratches Don't forget to do a couple of comparison screen grabs. Set the camera to max Integration and compare 'fan off' and 'fan on'. You will probably have to run the fan for about 5 minutes to allow the inside to cool down a bit for the 'fan on' test. Will be good to see the test results.
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Post by davy on Aug 8, 2014 9:58:45 GMT
I used sharpcap software for testing mine..you can see how many frames it drops during the different tests..I was shocked when I tested a previous mod..davy
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2014 15:08:07 GMT
davy: yes one fan for now. its high rpm moves lots of air. will see how it goes. might add 2 more of them. there nice and small as you see.. the D9 is for the remote keypad. i tossed one togther quick check. ill make new one down road. for nice nice look lol / works great tho.. ill open another thread not to hog this one. when i paint it and such.. Dman: yeah i was goin to paint it last nite. but am waiting .. ill try the sharpcap. not sure if ti will work with my grabber. i got a cheapo grabber. and some of the software doesnt seem to work with it.. easycap from amozon. it was only 4 bucks . lol maybe tonite ill be able to get some test in.. skys are pos to be clear .. edit: sharpcap doesnt like my grabber lol .. knows its there. but wont grab frames. no biggy. ill find something.. i use splitcam. seems to work ok. its video only not a frame by frame..
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Post by davy on Aug 8, 2014 18:29:48 GMT
brought my fluke meters home tonight so I will run it up and fire up the results and so how they compare.
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Post by davy on Aug 8, 2014 19:40:55 GMT
samsung scb 2000 4 fan mod testing. 1 x 40mm fan fitted behind lens board pulling hot air from chip 1 x 40mm fan fitted to top casing 2 x 18mm fans fitted at either side of top casing.
7.45 pm camera internal ambient temperature 20 degree's Celsius..no power fans on.. sharp cap software on 20 min timer compression=yuy2 frame rate 30fps...actual 25fps resoloution 640 x 480 samsung shutter set at x512 ...............................
20.10 pm captured frames=28283 frames dropped= 0 camera internal temperature = 21 degree's Celsius
.......................... fans off same specs camera=21 degree's Celsius 20 min timer after 2 minutes temp 27 degrees Celsius 12000 frames.... 17 frames dropped after 5 minutes temp 27 degrees Celsius 15000 frames .... 17 frames dropped after 15 minutes temp 28 degree's Celsius 22783 frames..... 17 frames dropped 20 minutes temp 29 degree's Celsius 29996 frames ....17 dropped. ........................... 29 degree's Celsius fans on in less than a minute temp 22 degree's Celsius in three minutes temp 21 degree's Celsius. . room ambient temperature 21 degree's Celsius
not bad results please take into consideration that in fan off mode hot air would be venting through fan housings..so temp would be hotter.
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