Post by Dragon Man on Jun 14, 2014 15:06:15 GMT
Due to the hassle of having to go out to my Telescope to change settings in my camera, which also gives the image an annoying wobble, I have made a Remote control for my Samsung SCC-A2333 (SCB-4000) Camera's OSD and now I share with you how I did it.
You don't have to use the same connectors as I do, or even mount your connectors in the same place, it's just how I did it. Feel free to copy the idea or come up with your own.
The important thing is the correct wiring!
OK, let's begin the Project.
_____________________________
Pic 1 shows all the parts you will need (if you do it the same).
The reason I use a small box for the camera connector is so the cable connector didn't end up pointing out sideways creating its own problems. This way the cables can all flow together.
I am using 75 feet of Data Cable.
The connectors I chose to use are 'D' connectors (often used on computers and Skywatcher Mounts)
'D' connectors are small, neat, and can by locked with the 2 thumbscrews so the cable won't fall out.
I mounted the Camera connector into this small Project box so the 'D' connector would be facing towards the back, enabling all the camera cables to run together.
The other connector simply goes into a 'D' connector housing called a 'Shell'.
With the 'D' connector fitted into the small box another hole is made to match up with the hole in the Camera body (from the Lens drive cable which is removed).
Then the whole lot screwed onto the camera body.
___________________________________
Now the wiring can begin.
Remove the small connector box from the case and remove the case from the camera.
The terminals in the camera are very easy to get to, and easy to solder but BEWARE of getting the contacts too hot. You don't want to damage the switch in the camera.
Also connect the wires to the 'D' connector.
There is no specific order for the 'D' terminals, just make sure the colours match up on the other half of the 'D' connector (the cable end).
At this point you will need a 7th wire. This wire goes from the shielding in the Data Cable to the chassis of the camera. I just used a scrap piece of wire.
The Wiring Diagram:
__________________________________
Now for the other end of the project: The Hand Controller.
Buy 5 'Momentary ON' switches of your liking. You can get them in different sizes, styles, colors and even illuminated!
Mount them into the Hand Controller case in a Cross pattern.
Now wire up the switches to match the wiring diagram above.
Neatness isn't essential here as you can tell by looking at mine
Just remember that 'ENTER' is the centre switch, the others are self-explanatory (left, right, up, down).
It is also worth fitting a Cable clamp to the Data cable at this point. This will stop the cable from spinning inside the box, which can twist the wires inside and pull them off the switch terminals.
It also prevents the cable from accidentally being pulled out of the box.
And that's the Project finished!
You can now control the settings in your SCB-4000 or SCC-A2333 from a distance.
Have Fun
You don't have to use the same connectors as I do, or even mount your connectors in the same place, it's just how I did it. Feel free to copy the idea or come up with your own.
The important thing is the correct wiring!
OK, let's begin the Project.
_____________________________
Pic 1 shows all the parts you will need (if you do it the same).
The reason I use a small box for the camera connector is so the cable connector didn't end up pointing out sideways creating its own problems. This way the cables can all flow together.
I am using 75 feet of Data Cable.
The connectors I chose to use are 'D' connectors (often used on computers and Skywatcher Mounts)
'D' connectors are small, neat, and can by locked with the 2 thumbscrews so the cable won't fall out.
I mounted the Camera connector into this small Project box so the 'D' connector would be facing towards the back, enabling all the camera cables to run together.
The other connector simply goes into a 'D' connector housing called a 'Shell'.
With the 'D' connector fitted into the small box another hole is made to match up with the hole in the Camera body (from the Lens drive cable which is removed).
Then the whole lot screwed onto the camera body.
___________________________________
Now the wiring can begin.
Remove the small connector box from the case and remove the case from the camera.
The terminals in the camera are very easy to get to, and easy to solder but BEWARE of getting the contacts too hot. You don't want to damage the switch in the camera.
Also connect the wires to the 'D' connector.
There is no specific order for the 'D' terminals, just make sure the colours match up on the other half of the 'D' connector (the cable end).
At this point you will need a 7th wire. This wire goes from the shielding in the Data Cable to the chassis of the camera. I just used a scrap piece of wire.
The Wiring Diagram:
__________________________________
Now for the other end of the project: The Hand Controller.
Buy 5 'Momentary ON' switches of your liking. You can get them in different sizes, styles, colors and even illuminated!
Mount them into the Hand Controller case in a Cross pattern.
Now wire up the switches to match the wiring diagram above.
Neatness isn't essential here as you can tell by looking at mine
Just remember that 'ENTER' is the centre switch, the others are self-explanatory (left, right, up, down).
It is also worth fitting a Cable clamp to the Data cable at this point. This will stop the cable from spinning inside the box, which can twist the wires inside and pull them off the switch terminals.
It also prevents the cable from accidentally being pulled out of the box.
And that's the Project finished!
You can now control the settings in your SCB-4000 or SCC-A2333 from a distance.
Have Fun