giorgosgr
Member
The stars at night are big and bright!
Posts: 37
time zone gmt +/-: +2
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Post by giorgosgr on Feb 15, 2015 15:01:01 GMT
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Post by davy on Feb 15, 2015 18:48:03 GMT
looking good,plenty of nice kit there to use,looks like nice dark skies as well.
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giorgosgr
Member
The stars at night are big and bright!
Posts: 37
time zone gmt +/-: +2
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Post by giorgosgr on Feb 15, 2015 19:36:27 GMT
Davy thanx for your kind comments. Regarding black skies well flash photos are deceiving :-) The top photo site is ok (village 380 population on Evia island central Greece) the rest are in the center of Kalamata town (southern Greece 50.000 population) and there is significant light pollution unfortunately :-(
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Post by davy on Feb 15, 2015 21:28:30 GMT
hi Giorgos, light pollution at my flat is terrible I look out towards a builders yard with a lot of flood lights its more like a football stadium,i have put my mobile camera array into the boot of my car today, i'm that fed up waiting on clear skies and decent weather that I will probably head for darker sites if I get clear skies..davy
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Feb 16, 2015 0:58:23 GMT
Nice setup Giorgos!
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Post by Dragon Man on Feb 16, 2015 4:59:44 GMT
Good collection of gear Giorgos. Those Blue scopes are pretty good here's mine If you find that bright stars give off a horrible bright purple/pink halo in your Refractor, just add either a #8 or #12 yellow filter and the halo will dissappear. Here's the difference:
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Post by davy on Feb 16, 2015 13:09:11 GMT
Thanks for the filter info ken... question. .us it visual filters your using
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Post by Dragon Man on Feb 16, 2015 13:43:16 GMT
Davy, the UV/IR filter doesn't make any difference visually, only photographically on Achromats. The UV/IR filter is a Photographic filter.
Suitability
Visual observation (dark skies): It depends, for dust protection only
Visual observation (urban skies): It depends, for dust protection only
Film photography: It depends, for dust protection only
CCD photography: Very good, if used with optics which contain refracting elements
DSLR photography (original): It depends, for dust protection only
DSLR photography (astro modified): It depends, for dust protection only
DSLR photography (MC modified): Very good, if used with optics which contain refracting elements
Webcam / Video (Planets): Very good, if used with optics which contain refracting elements
Webcam / Video (Deep Sky): Very good, if used with optics which contain refracting elements
The Wratten #12 Yellow filter is for both visual and photographic:
Visually, Yellow helps show Mars' polar ice caps, enhancing blue clouds in the atmosphere, increasing contrast, and brightening desert regions. It also enhances red and orange features on Jupiter and Saturn and darkens the blue festoons near Jupiter's equator.
Photographically, with 'Achromat' Refractors, it reduces or totally eliminates Violet Fringing around bright objects, reduces False colour artifacts, and for all scopes and colour cameras it does the same on the Planets as the Visual explanation above.
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Feb 16, 2015 16:35:22 GMT
I would add for solar ccd imaging/video with refractors with a white light solar filter, the UV/IR Cut does a good job improving contrast and detail.
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giorgosgr
Member
The stars at night are big and bright!
Posts: 37
time zone gmt +/-: +2
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Post by giorgosgr on Feb 16, 2015 18:37:22 GMT
May I use the fringe killer instead of the yellow filter? I use it on my Vixen refractor for visual but to be frank I prefer the unfiltered view. It makes the planets too yellow for my taste. If i want to observe planets or daylight scenes with the 102/500 I take off the small 2" "solar" cap and I have a 2" f/10 virtually semiapo refractor!
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Post by Dragon Man on Feb 17, 2015 4:05:16 GMT
Yes Giorgos, you can use a Fringe Killer.
But if you still get bad Violet Fringing on DSO's give the yellow a try.
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