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Post by davy on Aug 9, 2014 19:11:41 GMT
hi folks after slaughtering my samsung for last two years with mods and testing and ive decided as I haven't read of anybody else cooling a phil dyer camera im going to attempt to cool it without killing it.. project outline twin peltier cooling .. why never been done to my knowledge two 40mmfans and heatsink ordered from china and will order peltiers next week. will start by getting data pre mod heat build up prior to mods. stage 1 then fit two 40mm fans with peltiers at sides and put a large fan to draw clold air through camera top housing to circulate cold air around the camera internals and gather test results stage two if all goes well fitting a variable resistor to control the peltiers and fans and testing..
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Post by davy on Aug 10, 2014 9:11:24 GMT
email..fans have been dispatched. .slow boat from china no doubt. .lol
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Post by davy on Aug 19, 2014 23:43:49 GMT
slow boat from china arrived today. .so I have two 40mm fan/heatsink units now.next source 40mm peltiers and a variable resister.
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Post by davy on Aug 20, 2014 17:45:01 GMT
peltiers ordered. .
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2014 18:08:50 GMT
You might end up with an ice cube maker by drawing outside air past the cold side of the Peltier. I have a couple of old Mintrons. They are held together by two internal brackets. The outside cover is just a shell attached to the brackets. The camera doesn't need the covers to operate. Most of the heat is created by the camera control boards. Running the cameras without the covers significantly reduces the temperature of the CCD. When I used the Mintron on my Meade I made a new set of brackets that swung the CCD to the side of the other boards. This made the camera T shaped rather than long and narrow. The camera could then clear the base of the fork mount and let me view to 90 deg in Dec. If I was to try to cool those cameras I would do something like that again, but rearrange the circuit boards so that the CCD could be separately enclosed. Less heat to dissipate and sealed from outside air. If I remember correctly you want to be down below -20 C. Pull something out of the freezer on a hot humid day. You will see what I mean about condensation.
Speaking of cooling I am in the process of building a new set of cupboards for my house. I'm thinking of using a Peltier to cool one drawer for red wine. Where did you get your Peltiers? You could save me a bit of searching.
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Post by davy on Aug 20, 2014 19:14:23 GMT
hi ldb..peltiers sourced from ebay digital-store-2014..to be honest its a hit and miss with all the suppliers not one with a decent feedback . the phil dyer mod is a trial ,more a curiosity job,my thinking is that if a peltier is cooling from one direction and at freezing temperatures may damage the board as it reaches a hot spot on the board. my thought on this was if it was gradualy cooled from both sides on outer casing it would reduce thermal shock..the specs are -10 but I recon this will be a guide mark...the internal board will be sprayed with pcb lacquer to help seal the board against condensation. .the top of the casing will be vented by a 40mm fan this hopefully will remove condensation and create a movement of chilled air..the peltier and fans will be controlled via a variable resister. .. im not an electronics whiz it just seemed a logical way to do it..the worst that can happen is I fall flat on my face and save someone the bother of trying it..thanks for the intrest. .davy
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2014 19:50:32 GMT
You might end up with an ice cube maker by drawing outside air past the cold side of the Peltier. I have a couple of old Mintrons. They are held together by two internal brackets. The outside cover is just a shell attached to the brackets. The camera doesn't need the covers to operate. Most of the heat is created by the camera control boards. Running the cameras without the covers significantly reduces the temperature of the CCD. When I used the Mintron on my Meade I made a new set of brackets that swung the CCD to the side of the other boards. This made the camera T shaped rather than long and narrow. The camera could then clear the base of the fork mount and let me view to 90 deg in Dec. If I was to try to cool those cameras I would do something like that again, but rearrange the circuit boards so that the CCD could be separately enclosed. Less heat to dissipate and sealed from outside air. If I remember correctly you want to be down below -20 C. Pull something out of the freezer on a hot humid day. You will see what I mean about condensation. Speaking of cooling I am in the process of building a new set of cupboards for my house. I'm thinking of using a Peltier to cool one drawer for red wine. Where did you get your Peltiers? You could save me a bit of searching. Hi, A good source of Peltier devices with their controls are the various cheap cool boxes- www.dicksmith.com.au/travel-accessories/7litre-travel-cooler-and-warmer-dsau-m4501 just remove the bits you need. I actually found an eBay source of Peltier cooler units and bought a few, they were cheap enough.This is what I did so long ago: picasaweb.google.com/109921669020426367250/PeltierCoolingAMintron?authuser=0&feat=directlinkNOTE* I did add some small packets of blue indicator silica gel to absorb any internal moisture. However, I found the ramping up and then down the cooling avoided condensation and I let the camera return to normal working temp before switching off. I store all my cameras in separate sealed plastic containers-kitchen supplies butter boxes, with silica gel as a standard practice, keeps the camera innards completely dry until ext use. Rejuvenate the silica gel in the microwave or in the oven until it goes back to blue again (pink when full of moisture)Clear skies... Shevill
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Post by davy on Aug 20, 2014 20:43:53 GMT
hi shevill..cracking mod you done very inspiring,,i had thought of it myself but the costs against the would it work put me off going with it..my idea was to have the cooler block mounted into a hole on the top casing with a heatsink and fan.... how was the performance of the mod you done..how many degrees did it go below ambient.. and the fluid did it ice up or was it a fast transfer pump to stop it crystalising..
on my phil dyer mod outline ,how does my logic pan out,,do you think its sound or have you any suggestions davy
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2014 22:39:54 GMT
hi shevill..cracking mod you done very inspiring,,i had thought of it myself but the costs against the would it work put me off going with it..my idea was to have the cooler block mounted into a hole on the top casing with a heatsink and fan.... how was the performance of the mod you done..how many degrees did it go below ambient.. and the fluid did it ice up or was it a fast transfer pump to stop it crystalising.. on my phil dyer mod outline ,how does my logic pan out,,do you think its sound or have you any suggestions davy Hi,
It was an easy mod actually and fun to do as I have a well equipped workshop and love to play. The coolant was normal radiator antifreeze solution, (we use this for cooling our big pro cameras on the one metre down to -90) so it does not freeze. I also found that 10 degrees below ambient was all I needed to go which made it about -18 C. The solid stainless steel tank was also a huge heat sink in its own right, especially sitting outside the dome.
Clear skies... Shevill
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 8:16:15 GMT
hi ldb..peltiers sourced from ebay digital-store-2014..to be honest its a hit and miss with all the suppliers not one with a decent feedback . the phil dyer mod is a trial ,more a curiosity job,my thinking is that if a peltier is cooling from one direction and at freezing temperatures may damage the board as it reaches a hot spot on the board. my thought on this was if it was gradualy cooled from both sides on outer casing it would reduce thermal shock..the specs are -10 but I recon this will be a guide mark...the internal board will be sprayed with pcb lacquer to help seal the board against condensation. .the top of the casing will be vented by a 40mm fan this hopefully will remove condensation and create a movement of chilled air..the peltier and fans will be controlled via a variable resister. .. im not an electronics whiz it just seemed a logical way to do it..the worst that can happen is I fall flat on my face and save someone the bother of trying it..thanks for the intrest. .davy Hi,
No shortage of Peltier devices on eBay, which is where I do most of my shopping.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/330942379462?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107
Clear skies... Shevill
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Post by davy on Aug 21, 2014 8:30:07 GMT
yes..getting mine from china..slow boat again I bet
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 17:39:37 GMT
Good idea. I would be getting a cooler sized properly for the job plus the controls. While cooling is the main topic of this thread it wouldn't hurt to mention that condensation on it's own will not damage a circuit board as long as there is no power present. If anybody realizes their electronic are wet remove all the power sources including any back up battery mounted on the board. Let the electronics dry out completely before attemting to power up the equipment.
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Post by davy on Aug 23, 2014 16:28:33 GMT
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Post by davy on Aug 23, 2014 16:44:41 GMT
looking at the first image..the red wire has been cut,I would hazard a guess and say that is how the ir filter was disabled. nice solid alloy body,ideal for modding..loads of room in the middle of casing. twin peltiers fitted to the sides will chill the alloy a treat and make it a solid chilled unit,now if a f an was fitted internally to the rear of the casing blowing the chilled air forward on to chip board this would be a pretty efficient cooling mod..just regulate the peltiers. .going to enjoy this mod..davy
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Post by davy on Sept 10, 2014 16:24:22 GMT
phil dyer camera mod back on ... two peltiers have arrived from hong Kong..
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Post by johnno on Sept 10, 2014 19:51:11 GMT
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Post by davy on Sept 10, 2014 23:15:23 GMT
cheers john..
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Post by davy on Sept 13, 2014 9:59:58 GMT
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Post by johnno on Sept 13, 2014 10:59:08 GMT
Davy, I think you've might of put to much paste on. I would of thought it would be best to apply it the same way as when you fit a computer cpu and cooler.
clean and polish the area of the casing where the peltier is going to sit and evenly apply the thermal paste over the area using a old credit card or similar, using to much paste can have the opposite effect making it less efficient.
I could be wrong as I've never worked with a peltier.
but hey, it looks good. will be interesting to see the results with it switched on and off
just remember to wear gloves when handling the camera, you don't want to get frost bite
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Post by davy on Sept 13, 2014 11:09:15 GMT
thinned it out before fitting and squished it a bit as well when fitted peltier..was for photographic purposes ..thin layer better when using thermal paste..davy
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