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Post by ragold on Jun 21, 2016 18:54:13 GMT
Hello altogether,
I am a Germany based amateur and doing video astronomy now for quite some years with ever growing enthusiasm still. I have been dabbling with a SAMSUNG SCB-4000 indoors to find settings that would allow for use on the scope for deep sky viewing. Nevetheless, I have not come up with a sensible approach yet and would be grateful if someone coud give me some hints. A step by step instruction would be helpful.
The best I would end up with would be a short time beautiful picture in a non lit room indoors with perfect rendering of details and colours that would fade within 2 sec in what I presume is something like an in-camera stacking. The finally resulting picture after five "stacks" is a mere blurr and nothing compared to the first and perfect picture. I used settings with "fix512". In order to start integration in colour I had to change mode from "night" to "day". But probably this is all wrong and I have to follow an entirely different path of action.
Of course, the internal IR-filters are removed.
Any suggesstions welcome.
Ragold
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Post by davy on Jun 21, 2016 19:10:20 GMT
Welcome to the forum ragold,,your in luck,,,ken,,,dragon man is the only person I know who has the Samsung scb4000,,he is in Australia ,should be on in a few hours and he will help you out.Davy
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Post by ragold on Jun 21, 2016 19:14:15 GMT
Hello Davy,
thanks for the warm welcome.
I should add that I do not use a computer but only an external 7´´ LCD sreen for viewing.
Ragold
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Post by davy on Jun 21, 2016 19:49:37 GMT
A true video astronomer Video astronomy in its purest form :-)
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Post by johnno on Jun 22, 2016 1:35:18 GMT
Hi ragold and welcome to the forum. Have a look at this video from Dragonman it shows some of the settings he used, there's plenty more of his video's on youtube or his website ballaratman.wix.com/videoastronomy
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Post by ragold on Jun 22, 2016 5:36:01 GMT
Hello John,
indeed, Dragonmans videos are always inspiring and his settings correspond to mine from what I can see in the camera menue. He is also operating with "fix512" or lower settings. But what I wonder about is the smoth picture he ends up with. Mine would be a harshly structered blue/red renderung of just the main features of a blotted picture. There may be user specific settings that differ from the default settings.I guess the secret may lie in the whitebalance.
The picture also seems to build up almost immediately whereas mine would take around 5 seconds to build up from a dark screen.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Ragold
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Post by Dragon Man on Jun 22, 2016 8:46:16 GMT
G'day Ragold.
I don't know how I can answer your questions about the harshly structured blue/red rendering of just the main features of a blotted picture.
Can you post some images of what you are getting and I will try help.
Yes, use 'FIX' integration settings. That way the sensup setting you choose will stay as the setting you choose. If you use 'AUTO' the camera will choose the sensup time that it thinks should be used.
eg: If you select AUTO x256 the camera will start integrating at x256 but if it thinks it has collected enough light it will stop integrating at that point. It could be at x128, or x64 or wherever it chooses.
Using 'FIX' fixes the sensup time and it won't change until you choose to change it.
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Post by johnno on Jun 22, 2016 12:49:47 GMT
Hi Ragold, do you mean this in the photo below this is what happens when you remove the ir filter, with default settings and when you adjust the red / blue balance you should end up with a image like this, more or less natural colour
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Jun 22, 2016 13:11:59 GMT
Welcome to the forum, Ragold! Looking forward to seeing your SCB4K images!
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Post by ragold on Jun 22, 2016 21:51:25 GMT
Hello altogether, and thanks for the huge support! What I do upload is the deplorable result I ended up with by using the Fix512 integration. I observed there is no "manual" menue on the SCB-4000 to allow for indiviual tweaking of the whitebalance but I used the alternative menues under ATW1 in lamp-lit conditions to a meaningful result with a short time exposure. After saving these settings the only available light left was coming from the shielded 9´´ LCD-monitor. The picture took about 2 minutes or more to be presented the way I took it as a mere screenshot from the monitor. Any suggestions are very welcome. Ragold
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Post by howie1 on Jun 23, 2016 2:53:19 GMT
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Post by ragold on Jun 23, 2016 6:37:21 GMT
Hello Howie,
thanks for your input. I have done my exercise with and without a Baader UV/IR cut filter attached in the lighttrain but it woudn´t make any difference. The manual was what I referred to to find out about the whitebalance options. It is helpful to see others are using the camera.
Ragold
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Post by davy on Jun 23, 2016 7:33:42 GMT
Hi ragold,think we need to take a step back and go through it more from the start.can you put up daylight images on the forum, pick out a far away object in daylight and take an image and note the settings and as the sky gets darker adjust the settings till it looks like daylight and note settings,,do this till the sky is dark,,,this is probably the only way we can tell what the camera is doing,,davy
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