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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 25, 2015 18:36:58 GMT
This is my own personal review of the new Revolution beginners Kit from OC Telescope. It is 34 minutes long, so sit back with a cup of coffee and enjoy The kit is available here: www.revolutionimager.com/
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Post by davy on Oct 25, 2015 20:03:52 GMT
seen the link on cloudy nights and had a watch at it on you tube,nice honest review and the bits that were not quite correct( cable/adapter) you showed how to fix it,,good review mate. vendor will be happy,,, think the cam suffers from power loss my pd1 camera does the same,dosent like movement on the power cord to plug on camera.
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Post by johnno on Oct 25, 2015 23:27:13 GMT
Good review Ken, the vendor as really put together a good starter package even if there is some niggling things not quite right. Maybe the vendor might change a few things like a longer 3 or 5 mtr all in one power and video cable, or if not get one of these to mount the monitor onto the camera body www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Ball-Head-with-Lock-and-Hot-Shoe-Adapter-Camera-Cradle-Black-UK-/131620091123?hash=item1ea52b34f3:g:MjwAAOSwFnFWEk07 and Velcro the battery pack onto the back of it, but really there's everything you need to get up and running. Having read some of the comments on CN the vendor could offer upgrades, better monitor and different cable lengths if the buyer wanted this. But like everything you can't make everyone happy, the way one person was going on you would end up not with a small case but a bloody suitcase full
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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 26, 2015 4:03:16 GMT
Thanks Davy and John Yes John, the vendor actually sells that little swivel ball mount on his website to mount the monitor on top of the telescope or tripod.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2015 10:17:51 GMT
Good review Ken. Yes I am still alive and plan to get over to Snake Valley this summer. I presume the camera is the LN300. I have both the Mallincam Micro and the AstroVideo DSO-1. Although the DSO does colour better than the Micro, neither is as good as leaving it in black and white. I have the same problems as you did with colour fade.So I think leave it in black and white as you get really good detail that way. I admit ,I haven't used either for a few months as I bought a Wireless Exposure Controller for the Mallincam Xtreme and that takes up any viewing time I have. No problems with colour there . I love the simplicity of the camera and screen without a computer out at the dark sky site. That controller caught my eye. I have a couple of UTC controllers bought for about $10 online. They don't work on either the Micro or the DSO or the LN300 from Aliexpress but they do work on the Samsung scb2000...go figure. The DSO has a controller which connects to the back of the camera. Neither the AliExpress nor the Micro have controllers as far as I know and so you are left fiddling with the buttons at the back of the units. A controller that connects simply into the video cable is a real bonus . Revolution has done it and it beats me why the others havent. I keep my 8 " Mallincam screen on a camera stand and that works well for me. cheers Paul
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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 26, 2015 11:17:05 GMT
Thanks Paul. Yes mate,it's an LN-300. The PAL version. The colour changing to B&W problem has been solved. I wasn't clicking on 'SAVE & EXIT' before closing the menu
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2015 16:41:25 GMT
Ken That looks like a good kit. I like the controller. Pity about the Aus conversion I save and exit each time but the colour is a problem, while B/W is very clear and detailed. Havent tried very hard to work out a solution .
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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 26, 2015 16:56:50 GMT
Ken That looks like a good kit. I like the controller. Pity about the Aus conversion I save and exit each time but the colour is a problem, while B/W is very clear and detailed. Havent tried very hard to work out a solution . Paul, all 3 cameras (AVS, Mally Micro, and this model LN-300) all have different Firmware from each other. Some firmware doesn't Save the colour at different gain levels. This model LN-300 does. I even tested it today to make sure
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 26, 2015 18:35:41 GMT
Great review; looks to be a good little kit -- I hope they take your suggestions and implement them; especially that heavy battery hanging off the camera is just asking for a bent pin or to work itself loose during slewing.
--Rick
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2015 15:08:23 GMT
This is my own personal review of the new Revolution beginners Kit from OC Telescope. It is 34 minutes long, so sit back with a cup of coffee and enjoy The kit is available here: www.revolutionimager.com/Ken, enjoyed the review of the Revolution kit. Just to comment that I have just converted my SCB2000 and UTC controller over to using F-Connector (Satellite type) cabling. You can get a head change adaptor for the BNC plugs on the camera and controller which modifies them to F-Types, then use a standard Satellite cable to link them together. The reason for doing this is I got fed up with the insecurity of the earth bonding in the BNC plugs, and as you noted any movement in the cable or the camera/display etc results in a flickering broken up signal. The F-Types cure this.. you can move around as much as you like and no break up of signal! Steve (SkySpy)
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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 28, 2015 5:14:08 GMT
Thanks Steve, good tip. I will certainly look into it. Sounds like a far better solution for all Analogue cameras Here is the BNC to F adaptor so we all know what to look for:
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2015 11:07:41 GMT
Yes Ken, all analogues would benefit. The satellite cable is designed primarily for digital as you cannot afford any drop out or resistance fluctuations. As digital relies on being linked to a time sequence (in the decoder) the loss of even a small amount of data results not just in a slight flicker or poor image, but no image at all. Although you are still stuck with the primary BNC connectors on the camera and controller, the head change adapter is a solid straight through device with no potentially internal moving parts, as there is with a cable join. To accompany your illustration of the female BNC/F head change adapter, here is the male equivilant: Steve (SkySpy)
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2015 15:14:57 GMT
Oh.. forgot to mention that if you do the F-Connector conversion it is still essential to bind tightly some amalgamating tape around the BNC link (your stuck with it after all) and the small rotating collar that lies at the back of the head changer. This collar rotates to allow the cable to rotate freely (thus not putting stress on the joint) and although it will produce a spike only if you shake the cable vigourously... just putting some amalgam around this nails it! I have indicated the rotating collar of the male adapter on the photo below. Cheers Steve SkySpy
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 29, 2015 15:36:41 GMT
Good stuff, Steve, thanks! I've been working on some outside Coax cabling for my All-Sky cam and to be able to be inside this winter. Getting the right connectors and cable makes all the difference.
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Post by davy on Oct 29, 2015 17:54:05 GMT
Know what you mean rick.. I bought three lots of shotgun cable ( av/power cable side by side) power cable was ok but av was terrible lot of phase lines came through on to screen.
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 29, 2015 18:12:31 GMT
I have had good luck with Coax over the years, even the RG6 stuff. The shielding makes all the difference.
For my 'other hobby' I have run IR camera video over 1000s of feet of 75 ohm RG6 coax with very little signal problems. Fyi, I use a giant garden hose roller to spool my cable.
As I think about getting into some basic Ham Radio stuff, I'll likely have multiple RG6 runs doing different things... with the shielding, I should be interference free.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2016 21:07:02 GMT
Hi Ken, great review.
I am planning to get into Video astronomy. The RI " all included" seems to be a great equipment to a beginner like myself. However, the refractor that I have to attach the camera is a Skywatcher Esprit 120 mm ED (f7), with no focal reducer. And with a 2" focuser. In your video are you using a 2 --> 1.25" adapter to attach the camera to the telescope?
In the OC Telescope site, the instructions to attach the camera to 2" focuser are not that much helpfull.
Thanks in advance, Fernando
PS: I apologise for any mistakes, given that I am not a native English spealker.
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Post by Dragon Man on Jan 21, 2016 16:02:42 GMT
Your English is good Fernando. Welcome to our Forum. Revolution website probably doesn't mention a 2"~1.25" adaptor because your telescope should have come with one. The adaptor is not an item that the camera sellers are responsible for, or supply. Telescopes with 2" focusers should all come with the adaptor included with the telescope. If you don't have one, you can buy them from most telescope shops.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2016 10:29:38 GMT
I think i tracked down the last Revolution Imager, on the way from California. I found the honest review was helpful, i was a little worried when the colour dropped, but that was only a little face-palm moment...i could see people leaving the menu open for extended periods playing with other settings, but it seems if you sort and exit that first you could go back in and play. Good see you go from unboxing and through the procedure.
Does it matter what order the #12y and uv/ir filter go on?
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Post by Dragon Man on Apr 30, 2016 13:28:05 GMT
I don't think it matters the order, but I place the yellow on last. No reason except that the IR filter is always already on there
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