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Post by hadyn42 on Jun 22, 2017 17:23:20 GMT
Hello All
Please could you tell me can I use my SCB200 at an outreach event to show the folk some live viewing images of the Sun on a monitor?
My setup is as follows: ED80 refractor, HEQ5 Pro mount, White light solar filter, Baader Solar Continuum Filter (1.25") EasyCap usb video grabber and Windows 10 laptop and all the leads I think that I would need!
I was a bit concerned about ruining my SCB200 camera, which by the way the IR filter has been removed..
Thanking you in advance...
Best regards,
Hadyn - Isle of Man
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Post by Dragon Man on Jun 22, 2017 18:23:05 GMT
Yes Hadyn, BUT!!!!! you must have a solar filter on the front of the scope. The Samsung cameras work great for Solar observing. Here's some screen grabs I got with a Samsung SCC-A2333 (known as the SCB-4000), an ED80, and Glass White Light Solar Filter. I also used a 0.58x Focal Reducer. These are screen grabs from the day I was broadcasting the Venus Transit:
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Post by hadyn42 on Jun 22, 2017 18:36:54 GMT
Hello Ken
Thank you very much indeed for the reply to my question.
I do understand about the white light solar filter being on the front end of the telescope. I have two such filters, one of which is the white light Solar film type and the other to choose from is a glass solar filter type. I was going to use the film type, but would take your advice on which to use Ken....
Best regards,
Hadyn - IOM
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Post by Dragon Man on Jun 23, 2017 10:18:26 GMT
G'day Hadyn,
I always recommend Glass solar filters over the Mylar Film filters. Mylar scratches very easily and one tiny scratch can cause the sun to burn your eye or melt eyepieces or camera sensors. The glass versions have a coating of metal on front and back. If you accidentally scratch a glass filter on the outside, it still has a second layer on the inside giving you at least 50% protection.
The coatings on the glass filter is also tougher than the coating on the Mylar film. Less chance of scratches.
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Post by hadyn42 on Jun 23, 2017 21:04:54 GMT
Hello again Ken
Thank you for your input yet again.
Best regards,
Hadyn - IOM
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Post by howie1 on Jun 24, 2017 0:07:21 GMT
Vote 1 for the "proper" glass filters! If you happen to hanker after using a larger aperture scope for solar viewing and baulk at the cost of a glass 6" 8" 10" etc glass filter, then you can buy a small glass filter and using the same idea as those Lunar filter / small diameter openings in the scopes dust cap (like the image below), make a "cap" to fit over the end of the large tube.
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Post by davy on Jun 24, 2017 10:26:48 GMT
I have this method on my sw explorer,, never used it, I bought the tube second hand and I would rather go with the glass,,only got one good eye so have to look after it 😀
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Jul 7, 2017 14:43:57 GMT
Hadyn,
Regarding your other filters - you definitely did the right thing by getting a second filter. The solar continuum filter is good in that it rejects all but some wavelengths in the green part of the visible band. That's why the sun looks green. I usually switch to B&W mode so it goes back to white. Another option is to use an IR filter. Especially when using an achromatic scope - the infrared wavelengths cause much difficulty in focusing. Eliminating them gives you a much sharper and clearer picture. I use and IR/UV filter to knock out wavelengths on both ends.
I have used both Mylar and Glass filters. While Ken is right about the safety, I prefer Mylar because I feel it gives superior contrast compared to the Glass. And maybe I am not using the best Glass filters, to take that with a grain of salt. I always hold my filters up to the sun and look thru the filter to check for holes or weak points before putting it on the scope.
I hope this helps!
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