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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 11:37:29 GMT
Hey guys, first post here and in need of some help. I bought a samsung SDC 435 a couple of years ago when I was in korea for fairly cheap (about 6 years ago). Life and such got in the way so i never actually got to use it. I brought it out with hopes of using it. I've been reading articles on how to remove the inbuilt IR filter. It looked easy enough until I found out that one of the screws to remove the top casing has been stripped and I couldn't get it to budge. So my question is how much will this affect the video output when observing. I'll be using an ED80 on an HEQ5 mount.
thanks, Tony
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Post by davy on Apr 6, 2017 12:23:48 GMT
Welcome to the forum Tony,, the Samsung aka scb2000 can be used without taking out the filter,, but if you look at it as using sunglasses to not using sunglasses is the easiest way to explain it, The factory lens is blocking out important light emissions on the light bands that make the difference between good images and bad.. You could rehouse the car camera if you drill out offending screw,, but I would probably just tape the outer cover to the base,, One word of warning use good Philips screwdriver to remove board from housing,, they are tight and the screws will cam out,, I have one of my scb2000 cameras with four cooling fans,, works brilliantly
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Post by howie1 on Apr 6, 2017 12:29:24 GMT
Ken's a Samsung guru and he may correct me here if I'm wrong. Having the IR filter there vs taking it out doesnt change things that much (see shots below which compare my modded vs unmodded Canon DSLRs). Matter of fact, people often add a UV/IR filter to a modded camera (or to a camera without an IR filter) as it often helps increase sharpness and getting nice round stars when doing video output. Here's M20 ISO800 30 second shot Canon 700D unmodded (first shot below) ... vs M20 ISO800 30 second shot Canon 650D modded (no IR filter and no other filters added). Both images processed live in-field with exactly the same settings in AstroToaster. Both taken within minutes of each other ... shot the 700D unmodded, then swapped the camera over to the modded 650D while the scope was still pointing to and tracking M20, and repeated the shot without changing the AstroToaster colour adjustments.
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Post by davy on Apr 6, 2017 16:50:44 GMT
hi, yes the factory fit one stops the more valuable light that we require ,the astronomy one allows the correct wavelength through,, depending on the target it sometimes better leaving it off I found,,, on the dslr removing the filter will show up as a brown hue on daylight objects but at night it really does the business it captures the full spectrum of transmitted light and a clip filter can be added to let more hydrogen alpha light through,,, and a filter wheel could be added to do lrgb specific captures then combine in stacking or by making masks for specific light channels
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Post by Dragon Man on Apr 6, 2017 17:22:39 GMT
Howie is sort of correct, but with the samsung range of security camera (the SCB-435, SCB-2000) actually has a very restrictive in-built IR filter. The IR filters in DSLR cameras are better quality and have a cut-off point near what we need. IR and UV/IR filters need to have a specific cut-off' point in the spectrum. Security cameras are waayyy off that correct cut-off point for Astronomy. Security cameras are designed to work with street-lighting and IR lights and commonly have a cut-off point up around 940 namometres. Astronomy IR filters cut off at around 680 nanometres, cutting off only the unwanted Infrared light. A good quality Astronomy IR or UV/IR filter also has a Light Transmission level of 99%. Security camera factory filters are as low as 70% which is like davy said is like wearing sunglasses. As for your stuck case screw, I would suggest very carefully drilling the head off. Or using a Dremel to grind the screw head off.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2017 5:33:38 GMT
thanks guys, after a painful 30 minutes of prying the casing open i managed to get the filter out aha, i hope it was worth the hassle i cant feel the tips of my fingers anymore.
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Post by davy on Apr 7, 2017 5:47:37 GMT
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Post by fondofchips on Apr 8, 2017 6:43:51 GMT
Welcome to the forum Tony.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2017 7:55:34 GMT
So i got everything set up, the IR filters removed from camera, DVR to USB adapter purchased, and ED80 acquired. So the question now is, what exposure settings on the camera? I assume its gonna be different for planetary and dso. Also If i wanted to stack DSO for a non-live pictures, do i record the video and stack it using registax or do i screen cap pictures and stack using a picture stacker
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Post by davy on Apr 15, 2017 11:09:34 GMT
Few options to try and it really comes down to what you like best, Easycap has a stacking feature now,, but I haven't used it.. rob put up a link to its manual so that's a plus point. You could use deep sky stacker on it's own. Or use astrotoaster,, and use Howies tutorial.. you would only need to set up a capture folder and stream images to it and let astrotoaster do the rest.
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Post by Dragon Man on Apr 15, 2017 13:17:52 GMT
Tony, there's many ways to stack your DSO images from the Sammy 435. Many are mentioned by Davy in his post above this one, and you can also purchase Miloslick (that's the one I use for all my Analogue cameras: Samsung SCC-A2333, Mallincam Xtreme & Xterminator, all 3 Revolution Imagers, etc) as it has a very handy stacking section giving the user lots of choices and options. But it costs $49 Miloslick provides an Image capture button and a Video capture button. Personally, I do screen grabs myself and save them for posting in Forums etc. You can save them as Jpeg's and stack them in Registax. Registax actually works great on DSO's. And its FREE
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2017 13:44:50 GMT
Went out tonight when it was clear. A couple of things to note, my back and knees are so sore from manually finding objects (reminder SAVE UP FOR A GO TO MOUNT), i should prob learn how to polar align properly and I am really really tired. what are those annoying looking pixels in the image?
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Post by Dragon Man on Apr 16, 2017 15:49:31 GMT
Good start Tony.
Those weird coloured pixel are hot and warm pixels. All sensors have them. Just some sensors have more than others. And the longer the exposure the more they stand out.
If you are in Victoria I would be pleased to have you come here to my place and I can show you lots of tips and tricks with Video Astronomy, have a play with my gear in the observatory, etc. Often we learn stuff in a matters of a couple of hours when shown in person than the months we spend trying to learn the same thing in Forums.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2017 22:52:58 GMT
Unfortunately, im in far away gold coast aha
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Post by ChrisV on Apr 17, 2017 1:36:30 GMT
No wonder there's hot pixels. Goddam tropics ! You must be doing okay to get that without a goto and with high magnification. Maybe you could do some dark subtraction ?
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