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Post by Dragon Man on Mar 20, 2017 16:28:05 GMT
Wow John, you have done a great Job!!! That looks schmick! Weird about the alternator problem. Good that you now have it sorted though
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Post by davy on Mar 20, 2017 19:16:48 GMT
Had same problem with a Mitsubishi Shogun last week,, boss fixed a burnt connection on it and asked me to refit it,, tested the voltage and it went from battery voltage to 17.5 volts first one in a while I've had running unregulated,, Yeah John,, probably only good to about 15 volts before thermal cut out kicks in... would probably weld points together if it had them still fitted. Here's hoping mot goes well and gets a clean bill of health
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Post by johnno on Mar 20, 2017 22:04:37 GMT
It was a testing time as I'm not that clued up on electric's, when I was on the spanners at dealership there was 2 auto electricians so we never got to touch anything to do with electrics.
Had to ring the MOT station and put back the MOT to Wednesday. I thought it was the 21st today, didn't want to lose a month as I like to get it Mot'd a month in advance just in case there is any issues.
Yep Ken gave it a good wax and polish. Pity the weather over here is unpredictable because I don't like the look of it with the top on
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Post by howie1 on Mar 21, 2017 12:13:26 GMT
Beaut ride you have there. Great job on the resto.
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Post by johnno on Mar 22, 2017 14:58:52 GMT
Cheers Howie, I'm happy how its turned out.
Took it for it's test this morning and it passed with no advisories, just had to tweak the mixture as it was running a bit on the rich side, got it from over 6. on CO to 2.157 with just half a turn on screw and Hc down to 448 but engine was a bit lumpy so when I got home I turned them back up a quarter of a turn, didn't realise how just turning it about half a turn would make such a difference on the meter.
tester was quite impressed with the car but did advise to get it fully undersealed which I'm going to do in the summer anyway as I only did some places which were easy to get to, was going to do it myself but I can't find anyone who can steam clean it on a ramp, but found a company about 35 minutes away that will do it and treat it, bloody expensive but it goes through 6 stages and takes 3 to 4 days to complete, has to be done really before any rust starts to show its ugly head.
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Post by Dragon Man on Mar 22, 2017 15:44:04 GMT
John, I got a bit of a surprise yesterday. I was driving through our nearest town and I was following an MG, but when I pulled up behind it at the intersection it had a V8 badge on the back. I thought to myself: "That must be a fake V8 badge because I doubt they really made a V8 MG. But as he took off the unmistakable roar of the V8 was heard. I didn't know MG's had a V8 model! I have since googled it and found out that MG did in fact have a V8 model with the aluminium 3.5 litre Rover V8 motor from 1973 to 1976 and a 3.9 litre Rover V8 from 1993 to 1995. Although they are only tiny V8's, the sound was a beautiful powerful rumble like any big V8.
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Post by fondofchips on Mar 22, 2017 17:53:59 GMT
Cheers Howie, I'm happy how its turned out. Took it for it's test this morning and it passed with no advisories, just had to tweak the mixture as it was running a bit on the rich side, got it from over 6. on CO to 2.157 with just half a turn on screw and Hc down to 448 but engine was a bit lumpy so when I got home I turned them back up a quarter of a turn, didn't realise how just turning it about half a turn would make such a difference on the meter. tester was quite impressed with the car but did advise to get it fully undersealed which I'm going to do in the summer anyway as I only did some places which were easy to get to, was going to do it myself but I can't find anyone who can steam clean it on a ramp, but found a company about 35 minutes away that will do it and treat it, bloody expensive but it goes through 6 stages and takes 3 to 4 days to complete, has to be done really before any rust starts to show its ugly head. The undersealing has got to be worth it, for those of us that can remember these cars when new, the biggest problem was rust which stayed a problem right up to the late 1970's. In any case you just want to enjoy your car after doing all that work. Looks really nice.
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Post by davy on Mar 22, 2017 18:17:32 GMT
Hi John,, yeah crank up the mixture,,I would take co up just over 2% old cars like more juice to balance them out and idle better.
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Post by johnno on Mar 22, 2017 19:37:40 GMT
That's correct Ken about the V8's the later ones were called RV8 I don't like the style of them much prefer the older style plus I couldn't afford to put gaz in it. In the U.S they convert at lot of them to V8's. If money was not a issue I would have one of theses if you really wanted a classic looking mgb www.frontlinedevelopments.com/vehicle/mg-abingdon-edition/
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Post by davy on Mar 22, 2017 21:26:20 GMT
Love the rip off of the land rover v8,, or ford v6,,, aaah I'm in heaven😂
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Post by Dragon Man on Mar 23, 2017 6:45:01 GMT
Cool Video John. Vroooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooommmmmmm!!!!
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Post by johnno on Jun 29, 2017 21:33:19 GMT
Just a bit of a update, it's been running great till 2 weeks ago and the bloody thing broke down again, electronic ignition module packed in again, this is the second one now and the last, threw the thing in the bin and gone back to points and condenser. Good job I had a spare dizzy in the boot so changed it at the roadside miles from nowhere.
At the moment the headlights are out waiting for new wipac Quadoptic halogen units, 2 relays for lower and main beam and thicker gauge wire to make up a loom
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Post by davy on Jun 30, 2017 0:07:16 GMT
Bit mental with the electronic ignition,, you would have thought ,, stick that in and just forget about it,,
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Post by johnno on Jul 1, 2017 2:28:29 GMT
I was looking around different forums for another module but it seems all the latest modules from other manufactures are all made in China and are having problems with them, so I wont bother. 99% of the new condensers, rotors,caps, points come from China and only last about 100 miles but there is a guy down south called Distributor Doctor and manufactures them here in the UK, plus caps and points an rotors which cost nearly 3 times more than the module. There's a company in the Netherlands that do complete electronic distributors but they are nearly £400 which are bluetooth, you don't need to get your head under the bonnet to set timing and advance curves it's all done with a app on your phone. Anyway new headlights came today and fitted them but stilling waiting for relays and 17amp wire to upgrade the lighting circuit. Bought a couple of LED cob light strips £1.95 for 2 and used them for footwell lights they are really good so ordered another 2 and will fit one on the underside of the bonnet and one on the underside of boot lid all photo's and videos in Flickr album Tell you one thing it's a god dam money pit done a shed load of work on it which I've not documented on which I should of done if I ever come to sell it. Next job which I'm not doing is get it rust prevention amd undersealed and cavity wax oiled, rang up for a quote they said between £450 - £500 www.dinitroldirect.com/rochdale-vehicle-rustproofing-treatment/ www.flickr.com/photos/tfc475/albums/72157684595915306
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Post by Dragon Man on Jul 1, 2017 12:24:16 GMT
Gotta love them SU carby's John Look what's hanging off the side of my old 1928 and 1948 Harleys: 1928 J model 1948 U model
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Post by johnno on Jul 1, 2017 21:47:09 GMT
Have you fitted them Ken or did the early Harley's have them as standard,why is that guy from ZZ Top sat on your bike
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Post by Dragon Man on Jul 2, 2017 12:08:43 GMT
I fitted them Howie. I like SU carbies. Harley used Mikuni and other CV carbs in their old bikes and still use Keihin and Harley CV's in their new bikes. My current Harley is fuel injected or I'd have an SU on it too Hahaha, ZZ top! Handsome bugger 25 years ago wasn't I
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