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Post by davy on Oct 8, 2015 20:42:50 GMT
four terminal is rj10, just looked it up
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2015 21:08:51 GMT
Thanks Davy, I am confused now.....well I guess I will take a run to Radio shack and bring along the Celestron cable that came with the mount and compare notes. Did not even realize there was an RJ-10. Will take a look at that. EDIT: The point of my confusion, about half-way down this link Davy under Un-Offical Plug Names: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Registered_jackSo its off to the radio shack (uh -oh - blank stare time) for a RJ-9, 10, or 22.. Chuck
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Post by davy on Oct 8, 2015 21:19:02 GMT
hi chuck,,i done a google search.. different types or rj plugs,,, i think the rj9 was made into the rj10 ,,i can remember getting the wrong one initialy from ebay,,,im shure these rj plugs are fitted to uk landline telephone handset to phone base,,
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2015 21:22:56 GMT
Ha, we were typing at the same time...I just did an edit on mine.
Chuck
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Post by davy on Oct 8, 2015 22:03:24 GMT
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 9, 2015 14:11:01 GMT
Chuck, what are you trying to do?
You should have gotten the RJ to 9-pin serial cord with your AVX. From there, I use a USB/Serial adapter and a USB extender into my powered USB Hub. I am able to computer control my mount that way. I currently use Stellarium. I think I could push it to about 50' if needed, with the right extender cables.
--Rick
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 9, 2015 14:26:54 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2015 13:16:57 GMT
Hi Rick, Trying to do exactly what your doing. Bottom of hand controller, into the house with RJ-9 (10 or 22 whatever we call it) into the serial to USB adapter into the computer. It all works in house with appropriate ASCOM drivers and I use Cartes du Ciel at this point. I am using the supplied Celestron cable into the Serial/USB converter.
I wanted flat cord for the RJ-9 but all I could find locally (or even on Amazon) was the 25' coiled cord so ended up with that at this point. Really wish Celestron had used RJ-11 on the bottom of the HC but it is what it is.
Thought I would be smart and use the Skyportal WiFi module, welllllll that sure did not work out. You have to be, for all practical purposes right next to the scope. Called Celestron and they told me that the useful range of that item is 10-15 ft, with absolutely no obstructions!!!!! what?
Anyway, I think we have it. Also ran 25' of Cat5e to be used when the APU-1 gets here.
Was out last night with clear sky's but the transparency or something was amiss. Polaris was just a dim dot in the sky, my alignments would not work out,temp about 50 and humidity around 70%. I was miserable. Rick do you have an application form for the "frustration club?"
Life in a white zone, but hopefully Video Astronomy will solve some of that. It better or else I am in deep trouble for the $$$$$ I have spent getting this going.
Regarding Stellarium. I have tried it, it is a nice program and I know lots of folks use it but I just can't get used to its layout. I tried once to use its scope control plug-in with little success. May give it another try.
Chuck
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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 10, 2015 13:50:52 GMT
. . . . I wonder period, how long is a computer program good for before the position of the stars change enough to be off slightly ? . . . . To answer this question, Vixen write their Goto algorithms to be updated in 25 years. Skywatcher, Meade, Celestron, etc have never redone theirs, probably because they haven't been making Goto's for more than 25 years Star maps are usually updated every 50 years. The amount of distance that stars and DSO's move in the sky in 50 years is so small you wouldn't even notice it. A star that has moved a lot in 50 years will still be near the centre of your FOV. It's that small a change. Maybe a few arcseconds in 50 years for a fast moving star. The fast moving stars are near black holes and over a few years may move as much as 1 arcsecond in a loop which keeps them circling around the same place in space anyway. Also Binary stars orbit each other but the distance they move in the sky is practically imperceptible. The only star that moves a lot is Barnard's Star which moves approx the diameter of the Full Moon (0.5 degree) in 180 years. So what this tells us is that objects in space don't move enough in our lifetime to make GoTo's off.
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 13, 2015 17:46:18 GMT
Chuck, re: Cat5e -- that was going to be my next suggestion: USB over Cat5. I've had experience sending video over Cat5, I haven't done USB before but I know it exists.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2015 0:34:49 GMT
Rick, Well the CAT5e is going to be from the APU-1 camera into the house, to the APU-1 camera control and then to the PC (via USB) or S-video to a outboard monitor. Its a single cable (the cat5e) from camera to camera control. Well I finally found a RJ-9 coupler on E-bay to be used with AVX mount control, so maybe I can quit complaining about not being able to find one.
As a new guy I was really happy to catch M15 and M31 the other night on the AR127. Pretty much a cotton ball(s) but acceptable in my eyes, really looking forward to catching it with video astronomy. Did not think it was that bad from this white zone.
Might be that a little research/shopping for focal reducers is in order. Wonder what that strange look is that I am getting from the wife whenever I mention these astronomy equipment terms? Could it be a sign?
Chuck
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 15, 2015 13:25:53 GMT
My wife just wants me to be happy... she told me to go buy what I needed when my EQ6 was not cooperating and I got the AVX + StarSense; now with my problems there she's saying the same thing. Problem is, I dont know what to try next. I think I'll have the same problems no matter if I go get a Losmandy, go LX200 Alt-Az or ??
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Post by davy on Oct 15, 2015 15:27:57 GMT
Hi rick..can you rig your mount to eqmod and test it using cdc or some other software.
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Post by Rick in NWArk on Oct 15, 2015 19:41:43 GMT
I'm definitely going to give that a go on my EQ6. I would love to get that baby up and going because it has a nice weight limit. I think I need to adjust the polar scope first, however. I think that has been wrong from the get-go. There is a YouTube video somewhere that details using a piece of paper with a marking on it to get your polar scope aligned first, before you use it to polar align the scope.
My son's school is having an Astronomy day on Nov 15th. I have a lot of work to do to be ready for both the solar day part and the night stuff. I just hope to not have problems!!
The University of Arkansas Astronomy student club is also supposed to be there. It would be cool to introduce them to video astronomy if they have not already seen it.
--Rick
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Post by davy on Oct 15, 2015 20:18:40 GMT
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Post by davy on Oct 15, 2015 20:33:04 GMT
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Post by davy on Oct 15, 2015 20:35:04 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2015 12:47:06 GMT
Thanks for the links Davy,
Look very useful, got it bookmarked and will sign up with it.
Chuck
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Post by Dragon Man on Oct 16, 2015 13:45:33 GMT
I'm one of the rare people that had trouble with EQmod.
One of their Beta testers came to my house, set up the software, supplied all the cables, and connected it all up correctly for me, and it was always a few degrees out in GoTo's. The mount is exactly polar aligned (I always keep it aligned), and we tested it in normal Synscan mode using the factory hand controller (Skywatcher v2.5a) and everything was spot on as usual. Switch over to EQmod and everything was off again. He made 3 visits to my house (3.5 hours drive each way!!!) and never got it to work correctly for me.
I know EQmod is a good program because I have seen it in use many times at our Astronomy camps, and when some of our members use it on club nights. But it never worked for me. The Beta tester even had other Beta testers around the world trying to solve it and they never could. Weird huh!
But I don't mind. I like using my hand controller remotely. Nice and simple.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2015 20:33:07 GMT
Just seeing a lot of ya'll are buying electronic parts and bits from Radio Shack and amazon. Have you ever used Newark or Mouser ? Those are two I used a lot to buy electronics to build my X-ray units. And of course there is Grainger .
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